Hello from Khumbu! As you read this, we’re on our way to Lobuche, an important stop along the Everest Base Camp trail. Our route will take us through the scenic Thukla (Dughla) Memorial Pass, a moving tribute to the climbers and Sherpas who have sacrificed their lives on Everest.
Map of Everest Trek
Looking back, aside from landing at Lukla Airport—one of the most dangerous runways in the world—one of the most challenging parts of the trek was the climb to Namche Bazaar. The ascent from Phakding (2,610 m) to Namche (3,440 m) is long and steep, with an elevation gain of 830 meters that makes each step more demanding. Recently, we also completed our second acclimatization climb, ascending to Nagarjung Hill at 4,800 meters from Dingboche (4,410 m). Although it’s a shorter gain of about 400 meters, the steep incline made the effects of altitude very clear—I was breathing heavily.
Eldest son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, Jamling, who shared some helpful advice in climbing high altitude.
During this climb, I had the unexpected pleasure of meeting Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the eldest son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. He was very friendly and continued to check in on us afterward. He also shared some valuable tips for managing altitude difficulty, telling me that whenever my heart feels like it’s pounding, I should pause, inhale deeply through my nose, and then exhale powerfully through my mouth a few times. It was a simple but helpful piece of advice that I’ve been trying to remember on the Everest Base Camp trail.
For Khumbu cough prevention, I pull up my buff over my nose inside teahouses to filter the dry, cold air.
A notable part of the experience has been the dry, thin air. We’ve noticed fellow trekkers coughing inside the teahouses, a common reaction, and I asked one of the owners about it. He reassured me with a smile, saying, “Don’t worry, it’s just Khumbu cough.” It’s a gentle reminder of how altitude impacts everyone differently. The real challenge, though, remains the thin air. I’ve had to slow down significantly—taking my time to conserve energy and avoid fatigue. Each breath feels shallower, and I’ve come to realize that pacing is crucial—knowing when to push on and when to rest.
Throughout our journey, we’ve stayed at various teahouses along the trail. Some offered the rare luxury of hot showers and electric blankets, which made a big difference after long, cold days—especially since temperatures often dropped to 0°C or lower at night. Others were more basic and less comfortable, but they all served as vital refuges in the high mountains. Our guides, Namgel and Ang Gelu, regularly checked our oxygen levels each evening, made sure we ate and stayed hydrated, and walked with us along the trail—Namgel accompanying the faster group, while Ang Gelu stayed with us in the slower group.
Namgel mentioned that today’s trek from Dingboche to Lobuche would be both scenic and deeply meaningful. Along the way, we’ll pass a series of memorials and stupas built in honor of those who dared to challenge Everest, a solemn reminder of the mountain’s power and the sacrifices of those who chase their dreams here. Visiting these sites offers a humbling perspective and connects us to its incredible history.
The majestic view along the trek.
Tomorrow marks our final push, with the trek to Everest Base Camp via Gorakshep, a milestone we’ve all been eager to reach. The landscape continues to awe us – the towering peaks, glaciers, and vast vistas unfold at every turn.
Despite the physical and emotional challenges, spirits remain high. We’re carefully taking each step, fully aware of our high altitude and the importance of every milestone. This journey to Everest Base Camp is as much about mental resilience as it is about physical effort, and I feel a quiet pride in how far we’ve come.
In loving service,
Rosan
